This is an email I wrote to the gibbons experience after doing the Waterfall experience. This is just my experience and my opinion but I thought you should be advised.
Dear Noke,
Hello. Antonio and I returned yesterday from the Waterfall experience which left on the 19th of June. We went directly to Luang Nam tha and therefor were not able to speak with you in person. We were very disappointed with the gibbons experience and I am sure that the rest of the group which did return to the office has also let you know. We were well aware of the bad conditions that we might have found, like muddy trails, leeches, long hikes etc but we were not expecting the lack of organization and lack of knowledge (due to minimal if to say no english skills) by the guides.
We started our journey out by car and were able to cross the river but due to the bad state the truck was in, it over heated, we could not make it to the main camp. So we hiked three hours to the office in the village and there we were given a baguette. Which in my opinion is very little food. No snacks no fruit as promised in the brochure we were showed. We then hiked for another 3-4 hours to Treehouse 5, where we arrived at dusk. No guide stayed to let us know where anything was. The beds were not prepared for us, the treehouse had not been cleaned, in fact the rotting fruit and meal from the last guests were still there. The bedding was piled on the floor and after about an hour we realized that it must have been left there for us. We could not find enough towels for each of us (also as promised in the brochure) , so we had to share. The towels were hanging over the banister and they were damp, so I imagine that they were the towels used by the group before us. After we showered and prepared the beds for ourselves we sat around the table wondering if anyone was going to come back and bring us dinner. When we arrived earlier at the treehouse the guides left immediately, we now know to make dinner, but never told us anything. So after a few hours of waiting we started to wonder if the left over food was actually our dinner. Finally about 9pm we were brought dinner and hot water. Needless to say we were all very upset but finally relieved to see that we were not forgotten about.
The next morning we were brought breakfast, this time with baguettes but there were only 7 and we were 8 so again we all had to share. Some of the other guides came to the treehouse and one told us that she, she had come with us in the truck, was supposed to have come the night before with us but when we arrived in the village was too tired to come that evening. I think she came to pick up the treehouse and prepare our beds but since we had already done that she just left. Six of the eight of us went on a hike in the morning which was very difficult and the guide didn't seem to really want to take us. Since the communication was so poor no one could tell us about the hike we were about to do and even the conditions of the trail. On that trek we actually saw a snake, which the guide did point our and the slaughtered it with his machete. Then we again had lunch in treehouse 5 and finally were given our first piece of fruit. We were brought 1 pineapple for the 8 of us and about 10 ranbutanes, some fried banana and some chocolate. We had communicated to our guide that after lunch we wanted to go to treehouse 1 to take advantage of the ziplines. We had been told by the group who hiked out the day we hiked in that the waterfall was too muddy to reach and one of the other foreigners working with the gibbons experience told us the same. So when we went to the kitchen to tell our guide we were ready to leave he seemed very surprised to see us and asked us twice if we wanted to walk. Again a big communication problem. We eventually did hike to treehouse 1 where the ziplines were and enjoyed the hike and the ziplines very much. We took a rest in the camp where all the workers were and saw that they had bananas and other food and we were even given one each there. We also zipped thru treehouse 1 in time to see that they, for their arrival, had been prepared fruit and the treehouse was very tidy. Seeing that made us feel very cheated. Why were we not getting the same treatment after paying the same price???? When we hiked back to the treehouse our guide had already told us how tired he was and was the first one on the last zip to go back to his camp. We arrived with dinner on the table but with no hot water. One of our group had stayed in the treehouse during the afternoon hike and had told one of the guides who came to the treehouse that we had no hot water. But even after that noone brought us hot water. Another disappointment. The next morning again we were brought breakfast but there was no fruit or other snacks to accompany it. We then hiked to the village not knowing if we would have to hike out or if the truck would be there or if we would be given lunch.
The whole time during our three days the communication was very minimal with the guides. They barely spoke english, if nothing. No one could tell us basic things like how long the hike would be, the conditions of the trails etc. No one could point things out, like what kind of bird or insect we had just seen, the fruit on a tree or even a flower. In fact the guides barely tried to converse with us and went ahead of us like we were not even there. At times I could not see anyone ahead of me on the trail and wondered if I had taken a wrong turn. The food was very poor. There was barely any meat and no eggs in our meals, I don't mind since I requested vegetarian, and other guests were left very hungry. And as there was no fruit or snacks, as promised, we could not eat anything besides what we were brought. We could not help ourselves to hot water or make any as there was no stoves. The treehouse 5 is very close to 2 huge bees nest. So you definately cannot stay there during the days as it is overrun by bees. The treehouse was not cleaned or prepared for our arrival and we had to sweep and pick up after the last group who had been there.
Overall I will not recommend the gibbons experience to other travels and I will post this email along with some pictures I took of the treehouse when we arrived on forums for travelers such as the lonelyplanet or travelfish. The gibbons experience is, in my opinion, overpriced and was definately a big disappointment.
Hopefully my email will ensure that this does not happen to others that sign up for the gibbons experience.
Friday, June 22, 2007
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Myanmar
Finally here goes the overview on our trip to Myanmar. First off, I think this is one of my favorite countries out of SEA. I would definately recommend it. We stayed for 24 days and any prices for guesthouses will be for two people.
We traveled from Yangon to Mandalay, Mandalay to Kyaukme and back to Mandalay, Mandalay to Bagan, Bagan to Kalaw, Kalaw to Inle Lake, Inle lake to Mandalay. The only place I really didn't enjoy was Yangon. The lonelyplanet says in some places it looks like a earthquake has hit the city and I think that is pretty accurate. The people were the least friendliest there, in my opinion, but then again it is a city of about 5 milion.
Guesthouses
We stayed at Ocean Pearl ,$15 with ac, tv, fridge and they cleaned our room, and although the room was good and they picked us up at the airport we didn't stay there on our way out of Myanmar. I just didn't think they were very friendly. Before leaving we stayed at motherland 2 and they were very friendly, gave us breakfast the morning we arrived and the morning we left (it was the best breakfast that we had in Myanmar) and took us to the airport for free. The rooom, $10 no frills, was basic but I perfered them to ocean pearl. We stayed at Royal guesthouse in a $10 and 2 nights in an $11 room. Definately ask to look at the nicer upper floor rooms. You will get a lot more for the extra $$$. The downstairs rooms were like being on a cruise ship, dark and wood interior. The have sporadic electricity which you will find all thru Myanmar. I really liked the staff and they have a pretty good breakfast, they even gave it to us to go the morning we had to leave early. They can arrange onward travel for you , for a fee, and overall they are very friendly. We rented a motorbike thru them to visit Sagaing and Mingun, we like to move about on our own. The price was more expensive than the one we rented in Kyaukme (10,000k to 6000k) and the motorbike was not in good condition. Overall I would definately reccommend them. In Kyaukme we stayed at the GH listed in the lonelyplanet, $10 bathroom inside, although there are other choices . Nelson the owner was very friendly and we enjoyed our stay although the rooms were nothing to write home about. We met a young burmese Thura (pronounce Two Raw) and did a 2 day one night motocycle trek to a near by village. I would definately reccommend him and we really had a great experience. The family where we stayed were very nice but they basically went about doing their daily activities, which was great to get a good look at how they really live. After Kyaukme we went thru Mandalay to Bagan. In Bagan we stayed at New Park, $12 AC, batroom inside, fan. We also liked the guesthouse, everything was wood and the bathroom and shower were great. We had a nice porch for sitting and they would put some beers in the fridge for us. During the time we were there we looked for a pool and ended up going there during the day for $3 ea. It was really hot and you could only visit in the morning and evening. I enjoyed Bagan, riding around at our leasure. The people selling things were not so bad, after saying "no thank you" nicely a few times they would move on. We then went on to Kalaw and stayed at Golden Kalaw $8. The rooms are a little run down but after seeing the view from the balcony we didn't look at anything else. We did a trek with KT there at the guesthouse. In the end we were 6 and paid $6 a day. I enjoyed the trek and the scenery, more that Kyaukme, but I liked the homestay with the family in the Kyaukme trek better. The food we ate during the day in the tea shop and restaurant was very little but then at night we were prepard by our guides probably the best food I ate in Myanmar. The breakfast was also very good and plentiful. From there we went on to Inle lake and stayed at Mingalar hotel, $10 a VERY nice fan room with bathroom. The staff was helpful and polite. I really enjoyed the boat ride on the trip, a highlight of our trip.
Burmese
I think Ihave already said a number of times how wonderful the burmese are, but it just won't do them justice, you have to go and find out yourself. I think that they are the most friendly and simple people I have met and they really made our trip incredible. Even though a good amount of the population lives in poverty you will not get a lot of begging. The only areas where we did experience this was the more touristy areas where we as tourist have shown the children that if they smile for a picture or even just beg they will usually be given something. In Myanmar you can easily see men, women and children doing very hard labour. Noone is excluded and everyone works just as hard as the next. If the child is too little to do hard labour then maybe they are given lighter jobs like waiting tables, cleaning or taking care of a sibling. The only traditional dress that is widely worn in Myanmar (Where we traveled) is the longyi, which is the long wrap around skirt worn by all. We didn't see too many tribes in traditional dresses like we had seen in other countries. The children's school uniforms are green pants or skirts and white shirts. And again everyone wears flip flops.
Money
1250 Kyatt (pronounce chat) = $1. At the beginning of our trip we changed 300 dollars to Kyatt. Everyday things like buses, local transport, food, drinks etc are paid in kyatt. Guesthouses and some entrance fees and train tickets were paid in dollars. If you can imagine we had to carry huge wads of money around with us. At first things sound expensive...1000 for this, 500 for that but then you realize that it's 50 cents, 70 cents etc. Between the both of us we spent $25-35a day, on the days we didn't travel or didn't have to pay an entrance fee we spent less.
Transport
Transportation is very very slow, on average 30km per hour, at best. Our first train ride from Yangon to Mandalay was 16 hours on a train with no AC and very dirty toilets. One of our seats was broken and since the train was full there was no option of changing seats, one of us had to sit in the reclining position all the time. I found the train to be very expensive for tourist, $30 each and in our case was not more comfortable than the bus, a much cheaper option. Most buses are no AC and not all are regular big buses. Many are mini buses and I mean very mini. Our first bus ride was to Kyaukme, 3500k ea, and was probably the best bus we had the whole trip. We had our own seats, reclining ones, and there was nothing under our feet, like rice sacks etc. We also had a TV and got to watch Braveheart in English. I don't know how many of the locals understood english but the little boy in front of us really liked the fight scenes, the gorier the better, and he laughed and screamed with joy everytime one came on. The bus back to Mandalay, 3200k ea, was much worse. We had people packed on everywhere and were sitting with our feet on sacs of whatever. But still at least we had our own seats. These buses are quite funny from the outside because you see the people on the inside sitting very high up and you wonder why. But after riding one you understand that there really is no floor and that everyone is sitting on sacs of something. We took a mini bus, was told it was the best option, from Mandalay to Bagan, 6500k ea plus 1000k because we bought it thru the hotel, and were in the front row where not even I had room for my legs ( another option would have been by boat, maybe the better one). It was very hot and in the area between the front row and the bus driver they pack as many people on as possible. And it seems like people travel with everything they own. You also have people sitting on top of the buses with the luggage. Just when we thought it couldn't get worse we took a mini (this time I think it was a super mini) bus from Bagan to Kalaw(8000k ea), 9hrs. The bench seats were not wide enough for the two of us, definately not made for westerners. But we had requested not to be given the front row so at least we had more leg room. The routine was the same, when the seats are filled the bring out the little colored plastic seats for the isle and when those are filled people pack on wherever they can. Just when you think noone else could possible fit on the bus they stop and pick another family up. The bus is run by the bus driver and usually one or two others who hang on in the door and collect money, call out stops, help people get their luggage on and I think prevent others from rolling out the door on a dangerous curve. The Inle lake to Yangon bus is a big bus with AC, if it works. The first 6-7hrs of the 20hr trip is very windy and the roads are very bad. Many people were throwing up on the bus and since it was supposedly an AC bus the locals didn't want to open the windows. Other than the first few hours I thought it was better than the 16hr train ride and we paid 11,000k ea, $9. Overall the bus is definately an experience and a great way to see how the locals travel. But you definately need to keep your patience and your good sense of humor. We didn't really use the pick ups which are packed with people, the local taxis, horse driven carts (in certain areas they look like stagecoaches from a Wild west movie), tractor like trucks hich are common forms of transport for the locals. We did rent bicycles in Bagan, which was a great way to see the pagodas and we did a motorcycle trek in Kyaukme which we really enjoyed.
Food
I can say I definately would not return to Myanmar for the food. I will only mention some of the dishes I like and say that the food is very cheap. In the morning we asked in our guesthouse, since breakfast is always included in the price, for a burmese breakfast. We usually recieved Mohinga a chickpea based soup with noodles. I really like it. You can get it in many places on the street for about 350-500K which is like 30-50 cents. Usually we just ate a rice or noodle dish which normally cost us less around $1 each. We did eat at the Beer stations, where you can get a local beer for about 450-500K, like 40cents. The do some pretty good BBQ food and it is relatively cheap. The only thing I didn't really like is that outside the tourist places normally the menus don't have prices and you really should ask how much things cost ahead of time. In Mandaly I was charged in the same place for exactly the same food ordered two different prices.
Vices
The burmese seem to have many. The love to chew the Betel nut. It is wrapped in a green leaf package with herbs, spices and tobacco inside. It costs about 30k, like 30cents, and they chew it like candy. One after another...chewing and spitting, chewing and spitting. They also smoke a hand rolled cigar, cheroot, which depending on the brand costs about 50k each. Some smoke cigarettes but it is more expensive. Like I mentioned earlier they have beer stations, which are usually filled with men after 5.30pm. They have many local pilsners and even a pale ale which are all pretty good. The burmese men like to drink whiskey or rum as well. Some even pour the shot of whiskey into their beer or just mix it with water. Depending on the beer station you can get a pretty good mix of locals. Like I mentioned before we found the food pretty good and reasonable.
Religion
97% are Buddhist and the rest are muslim, hindus, baptists etc. Everyday you can see Monks, nuns (women monks), novices (the young boys) walking the streets, asking for donations. I have never seen so many pagodas in my life. Many people give donations to the monks hoping that any bad they have done in their life will be forgiven. It seems like a big buisness.
Leasure
The burmese play with a small wicker ball hitting it back and forth with their feet or even over a volleyball net (sorry can't remember the name). They also seem to really like soccer.
At any hour of the day you can sit at a tea shop, where the green tea is free, order snacks, watch tv, chat or just watch the rest of the world stroll by. It's definately very affordable and a nice time out.
We had a burmese massage, which was nothing like I had every had. It was a little over and hour and cost less than $3. But I don't know if everyone would enjoy it. First they warm up your muscles by rubbing and squeezing them then the stick their fingers deep into your ears for at least a minute and pull them out creating a popping noise. Very strange for me. Then they walk all over your back and legs. They also pull, strentch and bend you into all these wierd positions and then in the end rub a menthol rub all over you. We were told this was chinese medicine and should not shower til the next day. Something about eliminating the toxins.
We traveled from Yangon to Mandalay, Mandalay to Kyaukme and back to Mandalay, Mandalay to Bagan, Bagan to Kalaw, Kalaw to Inle Lake, Inle lake to Mandalay. The only place I really didn't enjoy was Yangon. The lonelyplanet says in some places it looks like a earthquake has hit the city and I think that is pretty accurate. The people were the least friendliest there, in my opinion, but then again it is a city of about 5 milion.
Guesthouses
We stayed at Ocean Pearl ,$15 with ac, tv, fridge and they cleaned our room, and although the room was good and they picked us up at the airport we didn't stay there on our way out of Myanmar. I just didn't think they were very friendly. Before leaving we stayed at motherland 2 and they were very friendly, gave us breakfast the morning we arrived and the morning we left (it was the best breakfast that we had in Myanmar) and took us to the airport for free. The rooom, $10 no frills, was basic but I perfered them to ocean pearl. We stayed at Royal guesthouse in a $10 and 2 nights in an $11 room. Definately ask to look at the nicer upper floor rooms. You will get a lot more for the extra $$$. The downstairs rooms were like being on a cruise ship, dark and wood interior. The have sporadic electricity which you will find all thru Myanmar. I really liked the staff and they have a pretty good breakfast, they even gave it to us to go the morning we had to leave early. They can arrange onward travel for you , for a fee, and overall they are very friendly. We rented a motorbike thru them to visit Sagaing and Mingun, we like to move about on our own. The price was more expensive than the one we rented in Kyaukme (10,000k to 6000k) and the motorbike was not in good condition. Overall I would definately reccommend them. In Kyaukme we stayed at the GH listed in the lonelyplanet, $10 bathroom inside, although there are other choices . Nelson the owner was very friendly and we enjoyed our stay although the rooms were nothing to write home about. We met a young burmese Thura (pronounce Two Raw) and did a 2 day one night motocycle trek to a near by village. I would definately reccommend him and we really had a great experience. The family where we stayed were very nice but they basically went about doing their daily activities, which was great to get a good look at how they really live. After Kyaukme we went thru Mandalay to Bagan. In Bagan we stayed at New Park, $12 AC, batroom inside, fan. We also liked the guesthouse, everything was wood and the bathroom and shower were great. We had a nice porch for sitting and they would put some beers in the fridge for us. During the time we were there we looked for a pool and ended up going there during the day for $3 ea. It was really hot and you could only visit in the morning and evening. I enjoyed Bagan, riding around at our leasure. The people selling things were not so bad, after saying "no thank you" nicely a few times they would move on. We then went on to Kalaw and stayed at Golden Kalaw $8. The rooms are a little run down but after seeing the view from the balcony we didn't look at anything else. We did a trek with KT there at the guesthouse. In the end we were 6 and paid $6 a day. I enjoyed the trek and the scenery, more that Kyaukme, but I liked the homestay with the family in the Kyaukme trek better. The food we ate during the day in the tea shop and restaurant was very little but then at night we were prepard by our guides probably the best food I ate in Myanmar. The breakfast was also very good and plentiful. From there we went on to Inle lake and stayed at Mingalar hotel, $10 a VERY nice fan room with bathroom. The staff was helpful and polite. I really enjoyed the boat ride on the trip, a highlight of our trip.
Burmese
I think Ihave already said a number of times how wonderful the burmese are, but it just won't do them justice, you have to go and find out yourself. I think that they are the most friendly and simple people I have met and they really made our trip incredible. Even though a good amount of the population lives in poverty you will not get a lot of begging. The only areas where we did experience this was the more touristy areas where we as tourist have shown the children that if they smile for a picture or even just beg they will usually be given something. In Myanmar you can easily see men, women and children doing very hard labour. Noone is excluded and everyone works just as hard as the next. If the child is too little to do hard labour then maybe they are given lighter jobs like waiting tables, cleaning or taking care of a sibling. The only traditional dress that is widely worn in Myanmar (Where we traveled) is the longyi, which is the long wrap around skirt worn by all. We didn't see too many tribes in traditional dresses like we had seen in other countries. The children's school uniforms are green pants or skirts and white shirts. And again everyone wears flip flops.
Money
1250 Kyatt (pronounce chat) = $1. At the beginning of our trip we changed 300 dollars to Kyatt. Everyday things like buses, local transport, food, drinks etc are paid in kyatt. Guesthouses and some entrance fees and train tickets were paid in dollars. If you can imagine we had to carry huge wads of money around with us. At first things sound expensive...1000 for this, 500 for that but then you realize that it's 50 cents, 70 cents etc. Between the both of us we spent $25-35a day, on the days we didn't travel or didn't have to pay an entrance fee we spent less.
Transport
Transportation is very very slow, on average 30km per hour, at best. Our first train ride from Yangon to Mandalay was 16 hours on a train with no AC and very dirty toilets. One of our seats was broken and since the train was full there was no option of changing seats, one of us had to sit in the reclining position all the time. I found the train to be very expensive for tourist, $30 each and in our case was not more comfortable than the bus, a much cheaper option. Most buses are no AC and not all are regular big buses. Many are mini buses and I mean very mini. Our first bus ride was to Kyaukme, 3500k ea, and was probably the best bus we had the whole trip. We had our own seats, reclining ones, and there was nothing under our feet, like rice sacks etc. We also had a TV and got to watch Braveheart in English. I don't know how many of the locals understood english but the little boy in front of us really liked the fight scenes, the gorier the better, and he laughed and screamed with joy everytime one came on. The bus back to Mandalay, 3200k ea, was much worse. We had people packed on everywhere and were sitting with our feet on sacs of whatever. But still at least we had our own seats. These buses are quite funny from the outside because you see the people on the inside sitting very high up and you wonder why. But after riding one you understand that there really is no floor and that everyone is sitting on sacs of something. We took a mini bus, was told it was the best option, from Mandalay to Bagan, 6500k ea plus 1000k because we bought it thru the hotel, and were in the front row where not even I had room for my legs ( another option would have been by boat, maybe the better one). It was very hot and in the area between the front row and the bus driver they pack as many people on as possible. And it seems like people travel with everything they own. You also have people sitting on top of the buses with the luggage. Just when we thought it couldn't get worse we took a mini (this time I think it was a super mini) bus from Bagan to Kalaw(8000k ea), 9hrs. The bench seats were not wide enough for the two of us, definately not made for westerners. But we had requested not to be given the front row so at least we had more leg room. The routine was the same, when the seats are filled the bring out the little colored plastic seats for the isle and when those are filled people pack on wherever they can. Just when you think noone else could possible fit on the bus they stop and pick another family up. The bus is run by the bus driver and usually one or two others who hang on in the door and collect money, call out stops, help people get their luggage on and I think prevent others from rolling out the door on a dangerous curve. The Inle lake to Yangon bus is a big bus with AC, if it works. The first 6-7hrs of the 20hr trip is very windy and the roads are very bad. Many people were throwing up on the bus and since it was supposedly an AC bus the locals didn't want to open the windows. Other than the first few hours I thought it was better than the 16hr train ride and we paid 11,000k ea, $9. Overall the bus is definately an experience and a great way to see how the locals travel. But you definately need to keep your patience and your good sense of humor. We didn't really use the pick ups which are packed with people, the local taxis, horse driven carts (in certain areas they look like stagecoaches from a Wild west movie), tractor like trucks hich are common forms of transport for the locals. We did rent bicycles in Bagan, which was a great way to see the pagodas and we did a motorcycle trek in Kyaukme which we really enjoyed.
Food
I can say I definately would not return to Myanmar for the food. I will only mention some of the dishes I like and say that the food is very cheap. In the morning we asked in our guesthouse, since breakfast is always included in the price, for a burmese breakfast. We usually recieved Mohinga a chickpea based soup with noodles. I really like it. You can get it in many places on the street for about 350-500K which is like 30-50 cents. Usually we just ate a rice or noodle dish which normally cost us less around $1 each. We did eat at the Beer stations, where you can get a local beer for about 450-500K, like 40cents. The do some pretty good BBQ food and it is relatively cheap. The only thing I didn't really like is that outside the tourist places normally the menus don't have prices and you really should ask how much things cost ahead of time. In Mandaly I was charged in the same place for exactly the same food ordered two different prices.
Vices
The burmese seem to have many. The love to chew the Betel nut. It is wrapped in a green leaf package with herbs, spices and tobacco inside. It costs about 30k, like 30cents, and they chew it like candy. One after another...chewing and spitting, chewing and spitting. They also smoke a hand rolled cigar, cheroot, which depending on the brand costs about 50k each. Some smoke cigarettes but it is more expensive. Like I mentioned earlier they have beer stations, which are usually filled with men after 5.30pm. They have many local pilsners and even a pale ale which are all pretty good. The burmese men like to drink whiskey or rum as well. Some even pour the shot of whiskey into their beer or just mix it with water. Depending on the beer station you can get a pretty good mix of locals. Like I mentioned before we found the food pretty good and reasonable.
Religion
97% are Buddhist and the rest are muslim, hindus, baptists etc. Everyday you can see Monks, nuns (women monks), novices (the young boys) walking the streets, asking for donations. I have never seen so many pagodas in my life. Many people give donations to the monks hoping that any bad they have done in their life will be forgiven. It seems like a big buisness.
Leasure
The burmese play with a small wicker ball hitting it back and forth with their feet or even over a volleyball net (sorry can't remember the name). They also seem to really like soccer.
At any hour of the day you can sit at a tea shop, where the green tea is free, order snacks, watch tv, chat or just watch the rest of the world stroll by. It's definately very affordable and a nice time out.
We had a burmese massage, which was nothing like I had every had. It was a little over and hour and cost less than $3. But I don't know if everyone would enjoy it. First they warm up your muscles by rubbing and squeezing them then the stick their fingers deep into your ears for at least a minute and pull them out creating a popping noise. Very strange for me. Then they walk all over your back and legs. They also pull, strentch and bend you into all these wierd positions and then in the end rub a menthol rub all over you. We were told this was chinese medicine and should not shower til the next day. Something about eliminating the toxins.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)